Alice Springs to Halls Creek (1053km)

Crossing the expanse of the Tanami Desert, the Tanami Track is actually a fairly well-formed earth road maintained by local mining companies. It is, however, a lonely and isolated route and while you can tackle it in a conventional vehicle with care, you will need to be well-prepared and self-sufficient. It is not recommended for caravans or trailers. Rain can close parts of the road at short notice.

Take ample supplies of fuel, food and water as various roadhouses along the track can be unreliable. You should also carry enough drinking water to last two trips because all dams and bores along the route are classified as 'undrinkable'.

Many travellers have dismissed the Tanami Track as being monotonous and boring, but it does have some interesting features along the way and it is the most direct route from Alice Springs to north-west Western Australia. Don't be confused by map references to the Tanami Road and the McGuire Track - these are the official names for the track, but most people refer to it as the Tanami.

Alice Springs to Yuendumu (289km)

Turning off the Stuart Highway 20km north of Alice Springs, the first 119km of the Tanami Track are sealed, roughly following the northern slopes of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Tilmouth Well is 50km past the end of the bitumen, on the banks of Napperby Creek. You can buy fuel (leaded, unleaded and diesel) and supplies here, camp or find cabin accommodation, get a rundown on the local road conditions and have any minor mechanical repairs carried out on your vehicle. You can also grab a meal in their licensed restaurant. The complex is open daily, 7 am-9 pm.

Beyond Tilmouth the road is graded regularly, but this doesn't seem to settle the corrugations and sandy patches. It's 102km to Yuendumu, an Aboriginal community that you'll need a permit to visit unless you're only stopping to refuel (unleaded, diesel) or to stock up on provisions at the store which is open Monday-Friday 8.30 am-5 pm, Saturday-Sunday 9 am-12 pm. As you enter the Aboriginal lands around Yuendumu, you'll see a sign quoting sections of the Northern Territory Liquor Act stating that no alcohol is permitted in the community.

Yuendumu to Rabbit Flat (311km)

From Yuendumu, the track wends its way across the Tanami Desert through flat, featureless terrain. Winds can be fierce along this stretch, with nothing to break them except spinifex and stones. The road isn't too bad for the most part, but you will need to be on the alert for washouts and gutters. If you're looking for somewhere to stop, note that camping is prohibited in the Tanami Desert Wildlife Reserve.

The most notable point on the route is the Granites gold mine, 56km from Rabbit Flat. Remnants of activity at the old mine are worth stopping to investigate - an old windmill, bits and pieces of derelict machinery, the prevailing feel of the place. From here, you can see the new mine, 2km away.

Situated roughly halfway along the track, the roadhouse at Rabbit Flat is extremely remote. You can buy fuel (leaded, unleaded and diesel), food and basic supplies here but be warned that the roadhouse is closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Payment by cash, travellers cheques and eftpos only. Opening hours (when it is open) are 7 am-9 pm. You can also camp at Rabbit Flat on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights only - it's bush camping with access to toilets and showers, for a small fee. If you anticipate that you will require fuel when the roadhouse is closed, you will need to call on open days to make prior arrangements.

Rabbit Flat to Halls Creek (453km)

Beyond Rabbit Flat the route normally deteriorates, with rocky outcrops to the Western Australian border and drifts of sand with high build-ups in the centre of the road. The Tanami Mine is 43km from the roadhouse, just before the turnoff to Lajamanu (a track that will eventually take you to Darwin), and the border is 78km from there.

The next track to the left, 85km further on, leads to the Balgo Aboriginal Community. As with Yuendumu, you won't need a permit to go there if you're only buying fuel (no unleaded fuel at Balgo, only diesel) and choosing from their limited supplies. Open Monday to Friday 9 am-12 pm, 2 pm-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-12 pm, closed Sunday and Public Holidays. Balgo is also where you'll find the Warlayirti Art Centre with over 200 works on display. It's a fascinating collection, open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm or by appointment, telephone (08) 9168 8960.

Take care at the Sturt Creek crossing, 70km away, which rarely has water in it but can be tricky when it does. The turn-off to the Billiluna Aboriginal Community is just past the Creek, at the head of the Canning Stock Route. Fuel (unleaded and diesel) and food are available at Billiluna, the last before you reach Halls Creek. It's open Monday-Friday 8 am-12 pm and 1 pm-4 pm. Closed Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays. Will open on these days before 6 pm-$10 fee or after 6 pm-$20 fee.

Many maps still show Carranya Station, 35km away at the turn-off to the Wolfe Creek Crater National Park, as having a roadhouse but if you rely on it you'll be disappointed - it closed down a couple of years ago. For an interesting diversion, take the road to the national park (23km) to see the Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater.

Back on the track, it's 112km to the Great Northern Highway and then an easy 18km to Halls Creek.

With a population of around 1200, Halls Creek is the largest settlement between Derby and Wyndham and the administrative centre of the region. Facilities include hotels, motels, a caravan park, fuel (leaded, unleaded, diesel and LPG), mechanical repairs, shops, a supermarket, restaurants, police, hospital, post office and a tourist centre.